Saturday, January 18, 2020

Easy pipe load for Tyco flats

You've seen the Tyco 40' flat car with its three giant pipe sections. They are wayyyyy too large to be believed, and they tend to roll off anyway.

photo: eBay seller nikiship

Here is how to make a more believable - and stable - removable pipe load for this car. It will rest just inside the molded tray.

1. Trim off the vertical divider tabs in 4 places. A utility knife will slice them off. Don't worry about neatness, those spots will be covered by the new load.

2. Obtain some 1/4" ID PEX plumbing tubing from your home improvement store. It comes 5 foot lengths, in grey or white. Grey is preferable, but white can be painted. A 5 foot piece is enough to make loads for two cars.

3. Cut the PEX tubing to length: 5 pieces @ 4 1/2". This is a somewhat soft plastic, you can cut it with a utility knife and cutting board. Score the tubing all the way around and gradually work the knife through it. 

4. If there is printed lettering on the tubing, rub it off using 91% isopropyl alcohol. 

5. Set up the bottom layer - three pieces tightly side by side, and run a bead of hot melt glue along the two joints. After it hardens, run two more beads, and stick the remaining two pipes on top.

6. Now the pipe load is stacked. Trim off any hot glue that oozed out. Paint if needed. I used a stick and masking tape for a painting handle to paint my white tubing grey.

7. Apply banding. I used 1/8" automotive pinstripe tape.

Now you have a nice removable load! 

Saturday, December 21, 2019

Dome car improvements

Here is a Life-Like passenger car, originally Amtrak Silver Inn 8053, after a rebuild for the Cape Ann. The detail molded into the dining area in the dome is quite amazing, but generally goes unnoticed since the entire interior is all molded grey plastic. 

Step 1 (interior): A careful repaint in contrasting colors shows that each table has four place settings, silverware, coffee cups, napkins, and salt and pepper shakers! Here the carpet has been painted yellow, chairs Cape Ann green, tablecloths maroon. 

Step 2 (not shown): Hungry passengers are brought in. It does require leg amputations to fit them into the seats.

Step 3 (exterior): The all-clear dome needs a bit of work. First, all the window frames are painted by running a silver Sharpie pen along them for a metallic look. The a roof panel is added, made from - what else? duct tape.

Wednesday, December 4, 2019

Recycling hood unit shells

Have an old shell from a hood unit loco hanging around? You can cut it up and add some ends from styrene to make a lineside instrument enclosure, or even tool storage for your shops. It would be a shame to let those nice doors go to waste!

Friday, November 22, 2019

Staging a loco service in the shop

What to do with a dummy locomotive - or a beyond-repair locomotive? It can be staged as a unit being serviced. Here is an AHM dummy Alco "1000" (I think it is really a model S3). It is parked on the service track at Bolton Shops.

Some of the access doors have apparently been removed for expediency. In reality, the doors are still in place, but have been painted flat black to make them just appear as openings. Four new "doors" have been cut from styrene and painted to match, and leaned against the hood. A workman is posed in position, along with his tool box. And the blue flag lanterns (LEDs) have been set in place foreward and aft.

A similar trick has been used to open some car hoods. See this post.

Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Pimp my Pancake Motors

The Cape Ann is a point-to-point layout with no provision for turning trains or locomotives. There is a runaround track at each end which allows locos to run around the train. With this configuration, it makes sense for the usual power to be two locos running back-to-back, so they need not be turned.

paired F7's

The standard loco used for passenger service is a Bachmann F7 Pancake Motor model, so called due to its "pancake" motor, having a flat 3-pole round rotor. I have standardized on this model, due to its common availability (can be had for $10-$12 used on eBay), and ease of service. This is a trainset quality loco, but with some tweaking we make reliable runners out of them. The pancake motor itself is never the issue, it is a nice little motor. The problem with it is getting the power to it reliably. (Some Like-Like locos use the same motor). 

The plan is to run the locos in mated pairs. First we will make each loco operate reliably independently, then wire them together. This results in a two-motor loco with double the number of electrical pickup axles. This arrangement makes it immune to any dropouts of power, since the pickup axles are now spread over a greater distance. Now it is a strong puller and will not stall over turnouts.

typical pancake motor loco

1. Find appropriate locos. We search eBay for "HO Bachmann F7" or "HO Santa Fe 307" for possibilities. Look at photos closely. You can generally identify a pancake motor model by the odd notch in the fuel tank area - see pencil point in photo. Every one we have seen with this notch has been a pancake motor.

notch here generally indicates a pancake motor model

Electrical tuneup: Remove the sideframe housing from the pickup truck. Remove the wheelsets for cleaning. Clean the treads and the back sides of the wheels as well (I use a little wire brush in a Dremel tool). Brighten up the wiper strips as well. Place a tiny dot of oil at the four points at which the axles rotate within the sideframe (this should cure any locos which require a little push to start). 

Drivetrain tuneup: Remove the sideframe housing from the drive truck. Place one dot of oil on each gear. Install new traction tires. I like the ones from eBay seller "ggnlars".

Lighting upgrade: Remove the stock lamp and replace with a 12v LED (All Electronics PN LED-12W) and a 1K resistor (All Electronics PN 291-1K) in series. Be sure polarity is correct - it will only light in one direction of travel. This will provide directional, constant-intensity lighting. The LED will be at full brilliance before the loco has enough voltage to begin moving.

Weight check: I add weight to 12 ounces - but that is a personal preference. 

Test each loco independently. Make sure it starts without nudging, and runs smoothly. If it requires a "nudge" to start, that indicates friction somewhere. See the note in Electrical Tuneup about lubing the axles. 

Once they are operating 100%, wire the locos together. I run paired #24 speaker wire between the locos, passing it through the rear window of each unit. 

click to enlarge

After shells are replaced, form the wire into a U-shape to allow flexibility.

I leave the stock horn-hook couplers as is to join the locos. 

Where else can get you a dual-motor loco for the price?

Sunday, November 10, 2019


You can never have enough pallets cluttering up the layout. They are easy to make.

  1. Get a box of FLAT toothpicks.
  2. Cut 1/2" pieces out of the toothpicks, you can usually get two pieces out of the middle of each toothpick. 
  3. Place a loop of masking tape, sticky-side out, on your workbench.
  4. Build the pallet upside down. Place five or six pieces in a row on the tape, leaving a little gap between each.
  5. Place three pieces across, and glue with white glue.
  6. Allow to dry then pop them off the tape.

Note: real pallets have three layers of boards. I tried this but they appeared too thick, so I just use the two layers as shown. No one has noticed.

Thursday, March 7, 2019

Milk to Diesel

This Matchbox milk truck converts easily to a fuel truck. Since the model is called "Petrol Pumper", that is what it was designed as originally.